Free Easter Bunny Knitting Pattern (Floppy Ears + Cuddly!) (2024)

A great size for a little one to take with them wherever they go, this big-eared floppy bunny will make a super cool best friend.

The cuddly toy would also make a great gift for a baby shower or birthday celebration.

Please scroll down to view the free knitting pattern, or grab the ad-free printable PDF file in my shophere.

An Easter Bunny Pattern For Advanced Beginners

This is an easy pattern for those of you who are at the advanced beginner level, and the techniques you will need to know are knit, purl, k2tog, and KFB.

Using mainly the knit stitch and purl stitches, you will make simple increases and decreases to shape the body parts.

Some assembly and seaming are also required to fit the body parts together.

Make A Fluffy Bunny Stuffed Animal

When I make stuffed animals, I tend to stuff them pretty well so they have a good shape.

I didn’t stuff the bunny too much so that her body is still really squishy and floppy, which is better for cuddles.

Perfect for Easter, why not make and give a knitted baby bunny that you know a little one will love?!

Make this bunny softie pattern as a DIY Easter decoration for your grandchild’s or baby’s room.

You could make one or more of these cute bunnies to place in an Easter basket surrounded by Easter eggs.

The Yarn I Used To Make The Floppy-Eared Bunny

• This big bunny has been knit with La Mia mohair boucle yarn in grey and cream (a chunky yarn/bulky weight yarn).
• You can buy this yarn from Hobium Yarns online.
• I used size 7 mm (US 10.5) needles to knit with, even though the yarn label suggests a size 6 mm (US 10) needle.
• The La Mia mohair boucle yarn is quite easy to work with on slightly bigger needles than suggested, as normally, with this type of yarn, it can be hard to see what you are doing!
• I think any fluffy yarn or wool would be ok to use, as many brands have some fluffy textured yarn in their collections.
• Working the rabbit up in a different yarn will still work out, but different yarns give different results (and different sizes).

The Supplies You Need…

Yarn

• 5 x La Mia Mohair Boucle Yarn – 50g (50m) in the colour grey L031
• 1 x La Mia Mohair Boucle Yarn – 50g (50m) in the colour cream L193
• Scraps of pink yarn (worsted or Aran) for the nose.
• Yarn Substitute –Rowan Soft Boucle.
• Yarn weight – chunky/bulky/12-ply.
• Total meters needed for the bunny = 300m

Needles

• Set of 7 mm (US 10.5) Knitting needles
• You can use a circular needle or single point needles for this project, the pieces are knitted back and forth (not in the round).

Notions

• Tape measure
• Darning needle/yarn needle
• Scissors

Other Materials

• Pom Pom Maker – Clover Large – 2-1/2 inches.
• Toy safety eyes – They are around 0.5 inches/1.5cm.
• Polyfill stuffing.

Abbreviations

Knitting Abbreviations And Terms (US And UK)

• Approx = Approximately
• Beg = Begin(ning)
• Cont = Continue(ing)
• Dec = Decrease
• Inc = Increase
• K = Knit
• KFB = Knit into the front and back of the stitch (to increase)
• K2tog = Knit 2 sts together
• M1 = Make one st
• M1P = Make one stitch purl – to increase on a purl row.
• P = Purl
• Rem = Remaining
• Rep = Repeat
• RS – Right side
• St(s) = Stitch(es)
• St St = stocking stitch – knit 1 row, purl 1 row
• WS – Wrong side

Easter Bunny Knitting Pattern Instructions

• Main Color – Yarn A – Grey
• Contrast color – Yarn B – Cream

Legs – Make 2

• With Yarn A – Cast on 12 sts.
• Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 2 – *K1, M1, – rep to the end of row. (23sts)
• Row 3 – P row.
• Row 4 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (24 sts)
• Row 5 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (25 sts)
• Row 6 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (26 sts)
• Row 7 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (27 sts)
• Row 8 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (28 sts)
• Row 9 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (29 sts)
• Row 10 – *K7, M1* rep from * to * to end of the row, K1. (33 sts)
• Row 11 – P row.
• Row 12 – K row.
• Row 13 – P row.
• Row 14 – K13, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K13. (31sts)
• Row 15 – Purl row.
• Row 16 – K12, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K12. (29 sts)
• Row 17 – Purl row.
• Row 18 – K7, cast off the rem sts until you have 7 sts left to knit on the left needle, K those 7 sts. (You should have 14 sts left with a gap in between).
• Row 19 – P row.
• Row 20 – Inc 1 st at each end of the row. (K the row) (16sts)
• Rows 21 – 33 – Cont in st, st for 13 rows. (Starting with a P row and ending with a P row)
• Row 34 – K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K2. (12 sts)
• Row 35 – Purl row.
• Row 36 – K2tog, K1, rep to the end of row. (8 sts)
• Row 37 – P2tog – rep to the end of row.

Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the leg seam, and leave an opening at the bottom of the foot for stuffing.

Stuff the leg with polyfill stuffing and stitch it closed.

Weave in any loose ends.

Arms – Make 2

• With Yarn A – Cast on 6 sts.
• Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of row. (11 sts)
• Row 3 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 4 – K1, M1, K4, M1, K1, M1, K4, M1, K1. (15 sts)
• Rows 5 – 11 – Work 7 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 12 – K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1. (11 sts)
• Rows 13 – 15 – Work 3 rows, inc (m1p) 1 st at each end of the next row. (13 sts) (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Rows 16 – 25 – Work 10 rows in st st – ending on a P row.
• Row 26 – K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1. (9 sts)
• Row 27 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 28 – K1, K2tog – rep to end of row. (6 sts)

Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the arm seam, and leave an opening at the top of the arm for stuffing.

Stuff the arm with polyfill stuffing and stitch closed.

Weave in any loose ends.

Body – Make 1

• With Yarn A – Cast on 15 sts.
• Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. (29sts)
• Rows 3 – 7 – Beg with a P row, work 5 rows in st st.
• Row 8 – *K7, M1* – rep from * to * to the end of the row, K1. (33 sts)
• Rows 9 – 11 – Work 3 rows in st st.
• Row 12 – K16, M1, K1, M1, K16. (35 sts)
• Rows 13 – 17 – Work 5 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 18 – K15, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K15. (33 sts)
• Rows 19 – 21 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 22 – K14, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K14. (31 sts)
• Rows 23 – 25 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 26 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row, K2. (21 sts)
• Row 27 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 28 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row, K2. (14 sts)
• Row 29 – Purl 1 row.

Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the body seam, and leave an opening at the top of the body for stuffing.

Stuff the body with polyfill stuffing and stitch it closed.

Weave in any loose ends.

Head – Make 1

• With Yarn A – Cast on 7 sts.
• Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
• Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. (13 sts)
• Rows 3 – 4 – Rep the last two rows once more. (25 sts)
• Rows 5 – 7 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 8 – *K1, M1, K3* Rep from * to * till the end of the row. (31 sts)
• Rows 9 – 21 – Work 13 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 22 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row. (21 sts)
• Rows 23 – 27 – Work 5 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
• Row 28 – K1, K2tog, rep to the end of the row. (14 sts)
• Row 29 – Purl 1 row.

You need to seam from both ends and leave a small gap in the middle to stuff the head.

The nose is the pointy end, and the back of the head is the more rounded curved end.

I would seam the nose first, then add the facial features – eyes/mouth, etc.

Then, seam it from the back, leaving a hole in the middle to stuff.

Once stuffed – seam that hole closed.

Once the head is stitched onto the body, you won’t be able to see that hole seaming on the head at all.

Weave in any loose ends.

Ears – Make 2

The start of each ear piece is the section that is seamed to the head; you work up to the tip of the ear and then begin the contrasting color.

• With Yarn A – Cast on 8 sts.
• Rows 1 – 38 – K 38 rows.
• Row 39 – K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (6 sts)
• Row 40 – K row.
• Row 41 – K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (4 sts)
• Row 42 – K row.
• Row 43 – K2tog, K2tog. (2 sts)
• Row 44 – (inner ear/underside of ears) – Change to yarn B and K row.
• Row 45 – KFB, KFB. (4 sts)
• Row 46 – K row.
• Row 47 – KFB, K to last st and KFB. (6 sts)
• Row 48 – K row.
• Row 49 – KFB, K to last st and KFB. (8 sts)
• Row 50 – K row.
• Row 51 – K row.
• Rows 52 – 87 – Cont to work in garter stitch (knit every row) for another 35 rows.
• Cast off.

Cut a long length of yarn and start to stitch the ear seams together (using an invisible seam).

Once seamed, they will be ready to attach to the head.

Weave in any loose ends.

Make the second ear to match.

Making Up The Finished Bunny

• Stitch the legs to the lower half of the body and the arms to the upper half.
• Thread the darning needle and push through one leg, then through again and into the body, then through the other leg and back through.
• Keep going until the legs are securely fastened.
• Do the same for the arms.
• Stitch the head into place – thread the needle through the body/neck first, then stitch through the head, and keep doing this until the head is secure.
• The ears should be stitched onto either side of the head.
• Lastly, I attached the fluffy bunny tail – the pom pom tail, which helps the bunny to sit down and balance.

The Bunny Stuffing

Grab the knitted bunny PDF pattern in my shop here; it’s ad-free!

Could you share your work with us?

I love seeing your finished projects on social media.

If you enjoyed making the floppy bunny, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme.

If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook groupand share a photo.

I’d love to see your work.

Happy Knitting!